Darwin to Victoria River and Timber Creek NT  then Kununurra WA

We left Darwin to enjoy its coldest mornings for thirty years or so and headed back to Katherine for an overnight stop before heading south west and on to Western Australia.

This visit we decided to overnight at Springvale Homestead in  Katherine and found a peaceful spot under a large spreading tree. Having levelled the van and got things ship shape I had a closer look at the tree.  Glad I did, many of the branches were less than solid, and in fact some were rotten. A quick move out from under the tree and we were set. Conversations with nearby caravanners  revealed that a branch had, in fact, fallen from the tree the previous night. I think it’s time they called an arborist !

Springvale Homestead itself has historical significance, but the caravan park section’s historical significance related to the extreme age of their amenities. Now we have stayed at many places with old amenities, but they were old and clean. Springvale Homestead’s were both very old and very dirty…yuk!  Won’t be back there.

On the road at a reasonable hour (for us) next morning for the 200 odd Km trip to Victoria River and quite a pleasant drive it was. It’s refreshing to have some hills and the pushed up volcanic – tortured outcrops added some variety after so much flat and fairly featureless country. 

On our last trip we had driven straight through the Victoria River area apart from a brief stop for a cup of tea at the Victoria River Roadhouse. This time we had done some research and decided to stay a night and explore the Victoria River and part of Gregory National Park – I’m glad we did.

The views of the escarpment and the views along the river were spectacular. The area around the river is a known habitat of the Purple Crowned Fairy Wren, but we didn’t see one during our afternoon exploring along the river. Parts of the Victoria River are good for barramundi and there was some evidence of some good catches in the areas we looked at.

After a peaceful night at the roadhouse caravan park we headed off towards Timber Creek and views of some more spectacular countryside. From Timber Creek it’s another 171 Km through to the WA border and then about another 35 Km to Kununurra, and it’s an easy drive.

From Timber Creek onwards we began to see more and more Boabs and it’s hard to keep driving when there are so many photogenic specimens along the road. I did stop six or seven times to capture some of the more exotic trees, maybe I’ll have to put together a Special Boab Edition! 

We submitted to the mandatory vehicle search at the WA border and passed with ease –  we’ve done it all before. You can’t bring any fruit or vegetables into WA (but we did get to keep some frozen peas, they were OK) and they won’t even allow you to bring in empty fruit or vegetable   boxes.

The female officer conducting the search was very pleasant and extremely thorough, looking in the caravan fridge and freezer as well as the car fridge / freezer and the drawers in the back of the Patrol. She also looked at the caravan boot and most cupboards. All in all it was a very thorough search, conducted in a non-threatening and courteous manner.  It’s all about attitude and courtesy and this member of staff at this border checkpoint has got it nailed – well done WA it’s great to be here.

And so to Kununurra. Our indigenous brothers and sisters are still very much in evidence throughout the town and surrounds but there seems to be a very much calmer atmosphere than we experienced three years ago. There doesn’t seem to be the problems with alcohol and generally noisy and riotous behaviour that we saw last time.

Nobody can buy wine, spirits or full strength beer until 5pm each day, and the sight of 40 or 50 people standing in line at Coles liquor waiting for 5 o’clock was quite strange. Incidentally, none of those queuing for alcohol at that time were indigenous, they were all white fellers and females. We needed to stock up on red wine and selected six bottles, only to be told by the Coles people that we could only buy two bottles each. It was a bit of a pest , but if it helps to keep a lid on bad behaviour, I’m all for it.

We took a trip along to the diversion dam and the evidence of a good wet season was still apparent with good volumes of water being released. It was the same at the main dam on the Ord, with water racing along the spillway. I forget how many Sydney Harbours (Syd Arbs) this dam holds, but it’s a lot, maybe 70 Syd Arbs!

It does appear to me as a layman that there could be much more land under cultivation to match the incredible amount of water available, (think Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area) but I guess there are people much smarter about these matters that I on the job, and it may be a staged development.

The famous Ivanhoe Crossing was closed, again by the volume of water coming down.

Kununurra is quite a nice place to stay with friendly people and a pleasant setting and we spent a very peaceful three days, seeing the sights and just relaxing.

Next stop Wyndham, more boabs and a bit of birdwatching.